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Diy fish feeder how to#
Diy fish feeder install#
Diy fish feeder serial#

Double check that you put the correct wifi's SSID and password into the ESP8266, if not you'll have to hook it back up to the FTDI programmer to upload the correct information, then rewire it to the arduino.

Make sure that everything is wired EXACTLY like it's supposed to.

If your ESP8266 isn't sending the time to the arduino, try these steps: I've rarely seen it take longer than 10 seconds but give it 15 before you start troubleshooting. It can take 3-15 seconds for this to work, so be patient.

Diy fish feeder serial#

the serial monitor will start counting the seconds from midnight on January 1 1970, until the ESP8266 sends it the current Unix time.

The arduino resets when you open the serial monitor, so the ESP8266 will get reset at the same time. Now upload the code to the arduino nano, open up the serial monitor, you should see something like the example above. BE SURE to update the code with your wifi network and password. The settings used to upload the code with arduino 1.8 are in the commented out portion in the beginning.

Diy fish feeder install#

You will also need to download and install all of the libraries used. Use the FTDI programmer this time along with the arduino IDE. Next, you'll have to upload the ESP8266's actual code. GPI01 should remain unconnected when uploading actual arduino code to the module. In my diagram, the orange connected between GPI01 and GND should only be made when flashing the ESP8266's firmware. MAKE SURE that the FTDI programmer is providing 3.3V! 5V will fry your ESP8266.

Diy fish feeder how to#

Use the FTDI programmer to do this, there are plenty of instructions on how to do this elsewhere, but I provided a wiring diagram for convenience. If your ESP8266 came without any firmware installed like mine did, you'll have to flash the firmware. It is not breadboard friendly and if you have female jumper wires I recommend using those. Okay, so the ESP8266 is a bastard to program. (optional) Cell phone vibration motor (to agitate the hopper) ( I used one of these) Protoboard/Project board (for final assembly) Wire strippers ( I recommend these useful things) ģD printed parts x8 (STL files provided).Resistors (1kOhm x2, 2kOhm x2 (or 1kOhm x4), 10kOhm x1) The ESP8266 runs at 3.3V, this is why everything else is 5V, it's easier to step 5 down to 3.3 than it is to step down 12 to 3.3 įeel free to use any 5V power supply you want, just be sure it provides enough power to supply all of the lights.ĥV power supply ( I used this one, the arduino CANNOT power all of the lights on its own.).The light strip needs to be waterproof, since water will evaporate from the tank and condense on the tank lid and lights themselves. ĥV RGBW LED strip (SK6812 IP 65, daylight white, I used this one).Everything in Tier 1 except the light timerįTDI programmer (to program the ESP8266).